Two kilometres of moss and basalt, cut by meltwater from the largest volcano in Iceland.
What the name means
Múli is an Icelandic word for a mountain spur — the blunt end of a ridge where it drops toward the lowland. Gljúfur is a canyon. Múlagljúfur is the canyon of the mountain spur, named for the shoulder of Öræfajökull it cuts into. Say it MOO-la-GLYOO-vur.
Names here describe what a farmer needed to know: which ridge, which water, which way through. Hangandifoss is the hanging fall. Fosslækur is the waterfall brook. Nothing in the naming is decorative.
Good to know
You'll sometimes see "Mule Canyon" online — a mistranslation. No mules involved.
How it formed
Everything you see was made by water leaving the ice. Meltwater off Öræfajökull has run this line for millennia — steady summer streams grinding down, then the occasional jökulhlaup, a glacial outburst flood that moves boulders and rearranges a valley in a day. Between them they have cut roughly two kilometres into volcanic rock.
The walls are reported up to about 400 metres in the upper canyon. They hold moss because the rock is soft, the air is wet, and nothing grazes a vertical face. The result is a gorge that looks tropical for six weeks a year in a country that is mostly rock and wind.
Canyon length~2 km
Wall heightup to ~400 m
Formed byMeltwater + jökulhlaups
Watching over itÖræfajökull
Öræfajökull
The volcano above
An ice-covered stratovolcano, and the source of every drop of water that cut the canyon. It erupted in 1362 — Iceland's most destructive eruption, which emptied the district and gave Öræfi its name — and again in 1727.
Its rim carries Hvannadalshnúkur, the highest point in Iceland at 2,110 metres.
Eruptions1362 · 1727
Highest peak2,110 m
The two waterfalls
One is handed to you at the main viewpoint. The other has to be earned on the upper rim.
The hanging fall
Hangandifoss
Roughly 123 metres of water dropping off the east wall in a single ribbon, fed by the Fosslækur stream. In low flow it thins to a thread; after rain it doubles in width and the spray reaches the path.
It is one of Iceland's tallest waterfalls, and it is not signposted anywhere.
Height~123 m
Fed byFosslækur
The hidden fall
Múlafoss
About 101 metres of stacked tiers at the canyon head, on the Rótarfjallsá. Only around 54 metres of it is visible from any one place — the rest is folded into the rock.
You have to walk the upper rim to see it at all, which is why most photographs of Múlagljúfur do not include it.
Height~101 m · ~54 m visible
RiverRótarfjallsá
Life on the walls
The moss is the canyon's signature and its most fragile part. It grows on a thin skin of soil that took a long time to accumulate, and a single boot print through it can stay visible for years. Recovery is measured in decades, not seasons. Stay on the worn path.
Fulmars nest on the cliffs from May into August, several kilometres inland, using the updrafts the canyon generates. Sheep graze slopes that look impossible from the other side. Low birch, angelica and summer wildflowers fill the sheltered pockets where the wind cannot reach.
Safety note
The cliffs are a nursery — give nesting birds space and keep drones grounded in season.
1:1 — moss detail, hand for scale
Centimetres of growth per decade.
1:1 — fulmar on a ledge nest
Fulmars, May to August.
1:1 — sheep on a steep slope
Summer grazing on the far wall.
1:1 — low birch and wildflowers
Sheltered pockets, July.
Seasons of the canyon
Season
Character
Light
Access
Summer
Saturated greens, full flow in both falls, birds on the cliffs
Near-24-hour light; golden hour lasts most of the night
Open. 2WD reaches the lot in dry conditions
Autumn
Moss turning bronze, first snow dusting the rim
Low and directional; short, strong golden hours
Open. Wet ground; higher clearance advisable
Winter
Icy runs down the walls, falls partly frozen
Four to seven hours of daylight
Road unmaintained; experienced parties only
Spring
Heavy meltwater, muddy path, moss waking up
Lengthening fast; clear mornings
Opening up; streams run high at the crossings
The canyon in pictures
2:1 — both falls, the classic frame
Hangandifoss left, the canyon head right. The frame everyone comes for.